Book Review | Pairing Beer & Chocolate by David Nilsen
While beer trends come and go, pairing is and continues to be a skill that never goes out of fashion, and quite rightly so. As beer lovers, we seek out sensory experiences from every sip we take, factoring in variables ranging from serving temperature to glass size to express and explain the precise nature of our drinking experience, so naturally once food substances are thrown into the mix, we aim to optimize our enjoyment by successfully pairing flavors and textures that are complimentary.
And for real sensory nerds, considerations of bitterness, acidity, fat, spice and sweetness, among many other components, can be fascinating. While beer and food pairing dinners are now relatively common, and we’ve seen work on pairing beer with everything from cheese to crisps (chips), beer and chocolate pairing has yet to reach a mainstream audience, until now.
David Nilsen is one of the foremost industry experts on beer and chocolate pairing. An Advanced Cicerone® and award-winning beer writer, Nilsen’s interest in beer and chocolate pairing was initially piqued when he was asked to lead a beer and chocolate pairing for a local bar some years ago. “I naively assumed that would be fairly simple,” says Nilsen, “Silly me. I reached out to London Coe of Peace on Fifth here in Dayton, an enthusiastic craft chocolate educator and evangelist, and she set me straight. I quickly fell down the rabbit hole of craft chocolate and have been following these parallel paths ever since.”
As well as continuing to conduct beer and chocolate pairings, Nilsen went on to launch his Bean to Barstool blog and podcast in 2020, both dedicated to beer and chocolate pairing education and telling the stories behind different products and pairings. From showcasing his own in-depth research to working with other industry experts to share experiences and tasting tips, Nilsen has built a bridge between the worlds of beer and chocolate, honing his expertise in both fields and bringing them together to guide consumers on their pairing journey.
Nilsen’s new book, Pairing Beer & Chocolate, brings together his extensive research and writing into a single handy, accessible guide for tasters, the first book on this subject. “There existed nothing in the market that looked at this in a comprehensive way, which was a shame,” he says. “I published the [printed Bean to Barstool] zine in 2022 to test the waters, and the response encouraged me to expand it into the book. The interest was there — and rightly so, as craft beer and craft chocolate can be beautiful together.”
Nilsen’s key point – that there is a beer for every chocolate, but not necessarily a chocolate for every beer, underlies that fact that this is a book for beer lovers who want to pair their beer with chocolate, not vice versa, meaning the book is shaped around beer styles rather than chocolate styles, a solid framework which prevents confusion and repetition and gives the reader a clear path to follow on their tasting journey.
The book functions as a successful how-to, outlining the basics of both beer and chocolate production and the standard methods of tasting for both, before taking readers on a journey through a rich and thorough range of beer styles, explaining briefly the background and tasting notes to each style before offering pairing guidance and specific recommendations.
Nilsen has worked hard to make the book accessible to the uninitiated, offering clear, precise advice and using well-known examples of style to ensure that readers can easily partake in his proffered pairings, while also ensuring that readers are engaged with interesting anecdotes and facts related to hop varietals, fermentation styles and historical notes. In short, the book is generous in factual content as well as taking the reader on a pairing expedition.
While some beer styles, like Milds and Porters, may immediately come to mind when you think of chocolate pairing, Nilsen’s book takes readers on a full deep dive into beer styles you may never have considered consuming with chocolate. For this reader, major revelations involved hazy IPAs (which Nilsen asserts are often the biggest surprise for newbies) and Witbiers, but there are plenty of other surprises, as well as some comforting reassurances, to keep you on your toes as you pair. By breaking down pairings but key characteristics and highlighting the challenges and opportunities each beer style throws into the pairing process, Nilsen invites readers to consider these variables in conjunction with our sensory reactions – what we find pleasant and appropriate, as well as flavor combinations we’re used to or which may challenge us. “More than anything, I want [readers] to discover flavors and possibilities they didn’t know existed,” explains Nilsen. “Craft beer right now can feel a bit stagnant. Finding a new avenue for appreciating it—in this case, with craft chocolate — can be an injection of excitement to help us see beer in a new light.”
Whether you’re a chocolate aficionado or not, it’s likely that you may come across some new and exciting chocolate varieties through the course of the book too. The sophisticated and broad-ranging array of chocolates referenced throughout the book include mouthwatering propositions such as Theo & Philo 65% Dark with Green Mango & Salt, Seligo 70% Smoked Black Pepper and Ratza Rose Nettles – flavors you may not even know existed. This introduction to the world of craft chocolate is a fun and eye-opening journey into a new world for many beer drinkers, and an exciting sensory and educational prospect.
With pairings for non-alcoholic beers, plenty of room for written tasting notes and a chapter on hosting your own pairing event at home, the book really does cover all bases. There’s even a handy section with ready-paired offerings using nationally available beers as an easy entry point to the process. Whether you’re a beer lover a chocolate lover, both or just someone who enjoys new sensory experiences and exploring their palate, this book offers a lively, informative and inspiring gateway into the world of beer and chocolate pairing.
Pairing Beer & Chocolate by David Nilsen is available from the Bean to Barstool shop and Amazon.
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