Table by New Image Brewing
Food at a brewery is often an afterthought. People go there for the beer being brewed, says common thinking, and then need something to eat – some type of nourishment should be offered. While this beer-first mentality makes sense for a business whose primary income is from beer, there exists the possibility to do things differently, giving a brewery’s food its moment to shine. Brandon Capps, founder of New Image Brewing, sought to redefine the taproom experience by transforming New Image’s Olde Town Arvada, Colorado location into Table, an approachable farm to table restaurant whose focus is all on the food and its quality ingredients. Brandon has “always been frustrated at why great food and great beer almost never seem to arrive side by side,” and he’s seeking to fix that flaw.
Reimagining Brewery Food
Capps has been very conscious of the ingredients used in New Image’s beer for a while. With the Brewer + Baker side project, Brandon is seeking to highlight local ingredients and companies whose values align with his vision for sustainability. By piloting strides for long term viability with a smaller brand, Brandon wants to incorporate these learnings into the larger New Image brewery. A similar philosophy is what has led to the creation of Table. “Focus on the suppliers, build relationships, seek out the best possible quality ingredients,” is Capp’s goal with Table. At the same time, he wants “to really build a relationship, supporting those suppliers and having a two way conversation.” Capps is seeking to marry the farm to glass movement epitomized by Bread + Baker with farm to table fine dining. “Truly remarkable food paired with truly remarkable beer… that’s the vision that is driving our new concept.”
To achieve his vision, Capps knew he needed a chef whose values aligned with his own. After an exhaustive search, he met Russel Fox, most recently of Apple Blossom in Denver. With a background in fine dining and farm to table restaurants, Fox’s guiding philosophy is to “seek out the best ingredients and showcase them with great technique,” perfectly aligning with what Capps sought for his reimagining of New Image’s food program.
Approachable Farm to Table
In creating the menu for Table, Fox was guided by an “approachable farm to table” ethos. “A lot of my cooking style really focuses on techniques and seasoning so as to not do too much to the great ingredients we have access to,” says Russel. Asked what kind of dishes Table will focus on, he explains “Almost all the dishes are snackable, familiar but unique in some way, use ingredients we are proud of, and pair well with our beers. That being said, we also like to have some plates that feature ingredients and techniques people aren’t used to seeing as much and can create a very special experience.” The familiar but unique phrasing would certainly ring true in the tasting menu that PorchDrinking previewed.
One thing that was very apparent in talking to Fox was his passion for working with local farmers in finding the best ingredients. “Meeting and talking with farmers every week at local farmer’s markets, picking up weekly orders at their farms, and just messaging about the weather and what vegetables are coming in soon is the best part of my job,” beams Fox. “The local ingredients really drive the menu.”
Similarities abound between what New Image is doing with their beer and what they seek to do with Table. “We focus heavily on breads and pastas that are made in house, working with many of the same farmers who grow the barley and wheat for our beer and utilizing fermentation to transform them,” explains Capps. The marriage of ingredient providers between beer and food is a unique offering in a brewery and displays the special feat New Image is pulling off.
A Tasting Course Worth Visiting
Table was kind enough to provide a tasting course of their menu to PorchDrinking, allowing us to sample their menu and some of the dishes they will be featuring. We thank them for their generosity.
First things first considering this is a brewery: beer! Something light and not overwhelming in its flavor was the direction here, so Premium Pils was the choice. At 4.5% ABV, this Italian Pilsner had the right amount of crispness accentuated by moderate dry hopping for some floral notes, the kind of beer that would pair well with almost any food.
Starting off the tasting was an off-menu amuse-bouche consisting of house cured salmon and cream cheese whipped with chilis on a tostada chip. This simple treat had wonderfully rounded flavors as chip saltiness meshed perfectly with savory salmon and cheese.
The salad course featured the Badger Flame Beet Salad, a demonstration of how fresh and local ingredients can elevate simplicity into something exquisite. The oft-overlooked beet had its earthy quality highlighted by the sharper flavors of feta, citrus, and a charred scallion vinaigrette.
With Table’s focus on breads, their Heirloom Tomato Bread was next up. Housemade focaccia, heirloom tomatoes, and marinated cherry tomatoes were the stars of this visual stunner, once again exhibiting the incredible flavors found in fresh local ingredients.
The heaviest and most meat-forward dish was the Housemade Pancetta. Resting atop a bed of pine nut butter and interlaced with sliced pears, this was a cacophony of flavors as salty teamed up with savory and lightly fruity. As with most of the dishes at Table, it is recommended to share this with a friend especially with its cured meat derived intensity.
The pasta is not to be missed, and the Maine Lobster & Potato Ravioli delivered an excellent balance of creamy bites to be savored along with freshness in celery and crispy potatoes.
Before dessert was served, a seasonal cocktail was selected, ensuring participation in the entire Table experience. The Ultima Palabra, served up, showed off a great mixture of mezcal and green chartreuse, never leaning too far into either while allowing its citrus components to shine.
Last but certainly not least was a delectable Tres Leches Panna Cotta that aped the experience of elote. This not-too-heavy dessert was an apt ending to an incredible creative display of ingredients and techniques.
New Image and Table Going Forward
It was a long road leading to Table, and Capps is proud of what has been created and what is being offered to patrons. “So many of you love coming to the taproom because there’s always something fresh on the draft list. We’re constantly pushing ourselves, experimenting, seeking to elevate who we are and what we do. Now, you can expect the same from our food program.” As Executive Chef for all New Image locations, Fox has also brought the farm to table philosophy to the Wheat Ridge taproom, using fresh local ingredients in their pizzas, sandwiches, and salads.
Fox has been humbled by Table’s reception so far. “Almost every day we hear from guests that we exceeded their expectations in some way, and they’re stoked we are doing this in the neighborhood.”
As is the nature of farm to table restaurants and the seasonality and availability of ingredients, Fox recognizes that Table has to constantly adapt to their environment and what people are expecting. “One of our focuses now is how to best create a great food and beer experience for our guests rather than one or the other.” He goes on to explain how they have changed and sought to better capture the combined expectations, “includ(ing) suggested beer pairings with all the dishes on our food menu as well as offering a happy hour menu that makes it really easy and fun to enjoy our beers while trying a small bite or two.” If you find yourself in Olde Town Arvada, stop by Table and give it a try for a unique and hopefully unforgettable brewery food experience.
All images courtesy of Britt Antley
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