If there’s one thing I’ve learned about Allagash Brewing Company since I started paying attention to their beers, it’s this: They’re reliable, in multiple senses of the word. I rely on them when I’m eating out and unsure of which beer to order—until I see Allagash White, which is my foolproof safety. I also rely on them for their ability to bring quality concoctions to the table. Take Coolship Resurgam, for example, part of their Coolship series. But before we go any further, what is a coolship?

According to CraftBeer.com, coolships “were utilized to cool down the heated wort, the sugary liquid that ferments into beer, that is created when hot water is run through the milled malted barley, wheat or other grains.” Using a coolship for brewing is considered an old-world method. Inspired after a trip to Belgium, Allagash founder Rob Tod wanted to bring that style to America. This endeavor marked the first modern installation in American craft brewing.

Coolship Resurgam takes three years to fully ferment and its multiple awards indicate the wait is worth it. This particular bottle was dated August 31, 2017. Allagash notes that the beer is best within two years, so I was in the clear. To be honest, I bought this without having a clue what it tasted like. My intention was to choose a brewery I know and love and experiment with something new.

While funky beer is not my go-to, this one surprised me. Pop the cork and you’ll get an aroma of light acidity and fruitiness to balance it out. It pours a beautiful deep golden, which is arguably one of the most appetizing colors for a beer. I was ready to pucker after my first sip—but I didn’t. It contains just enough tartness and has a clean and dry finish.

‘Resurgam’ comes from the motto of Portland, ME and means “I shall rise again.” It’s very fitting for a beer released in batches. On February 23, the newest batch was released after three years. If you haven’t tasted it, I highly recommend it. Its high regard is well earned and it gives Allagash another point for being one of the most creative and innovative breweries in America.

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